Seagull at Mont Saint-Michel, France

by John Twynam

Title

Seagull at Mont Saint-Michel, France

Artist

John Twynam

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A seagull sits perched on an outer wall of the medieval abbey of Mont Saint-Michel in France, gazing off into the distance on a gloomy day.

Mont Saint Michel, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the name given to this 12th century medieval abbey as well as the tidal island it sits on and a mainland commune in Normandy, France. The island lies about one kilometre off the country's northwestern coast, and had a population of only 30 as of 2017. Because of its position, it is accessible at low tide to the many pilgrims to the abbey - the tide gets so low that the "island" is no longer an island; people could walk across the wet sand to it. High tide brings the water back in and returns it to its "island" status, which helps defend against would-be assailants. The island remained unconquered during the Hundred Years War, and in 1433, a small garrison fended off a full attack by the English. King Louis XI recognized this defensibility, in particular its reverse effects, and turned the abbey into a prison. This is why the abbey isn't colourfully decorated like churches of similar time periods, such as Saint Chapel in Paris - when it was turned into a prison, everything was stripped down to the bare stone walls so as not to leave anything that could potentially be used as a weapon.

The first incarnation of the abbey was dedicated in 709, though it was just a small church at the time. The abbey as seen today was built up during the 12th century, and is an essential part of the structural composition of the town the feudal society constructed. On top, God, the abbey, and monastery; below this, the Great halls, then stores and housing, and at the bottom (outside the walls), fishermen's and farmers' housing.

I took a trip to Paris and Normandy in September 2019 - half was spent in Paris, and the other half in Bayeux to tour the D-Day sites. During the week in Bayeux, I decided to take a day off from the D-Day sites and drive down to Mont Saint Michel. The architecture and history are both stunning.

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May 14th, 2021

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